Paris City Guide
General Information
I’ll be the first to admit that I didn’t immediately love Paris the first time I visited. I know that’s ridiculous - what right do I have to not like a place when I have the privilege of getting to travel at all? But, because I was a novice traveler that second guessed everything, the Parisian temperament intimidated me. Now that I’ve had the time to become well-acquainted with the process of international travel, I was much more comfortable in my own skin this time around as I made my way through the streets of Paris.
The men
NOTE: This section is more a personal interlude rather than useful information.
I’m making this it’s own section because I think it deserves it. Parisian men are magical. Not all of them, of course; that would be overwhelming. But most of them? Fantastical harbingers of romance and seduction. Paris is the only city where I feel like I see my potential soulmate at every train stop. I know I’m basing my logic solely on appearance and I shouldn’t do that, but they’re just so damn beautiful! In many ways, their appearance tells the story of who they are.
Somehow, the Parisian men that have caught my eye have been able to pull off this whole “I’m rugged but I have it together” look. Perhaps they’ll be sporting a light beard and these deliciously disheveled locks strewn about the rim of their hats, but their clothing will be giving off an entirely different energy.
One might be wearing an expensive jacket or a nice scarf that envelops his chiseled face or maybe a watch peeking out from beneath his sleeve. The contrasts made between their physical appearance and their style seem very deliberate and heavily adds to their appeal. It’s as if they see their bodies as a piece of expressive art and their clothing as the frame that catches the eye and draws you in. And they’re never gaudy. Some might look exuberant, but it feels like they chose that particular ensemble to express who they are, not what they’ve got.
And let’s not forget their demeanor; they carry themselves with this unmistakable, yet subtle, confidence that screams “Yes, I’m a man, but I’m not afraid to show my soft side” - now that’s a special breed of the XY-gene. I realize that that’s such a peculiar thing to say, but I’m hoping to paint a vivid picture to do justice to those incredible Parisian males. In a way, they share a likeness to Italian men in their confidence. The difference lies in the fact that I sometimes feel that Italians are undressing me in their mind while the Parisians look at me as if they can see many dimly-lit nights together in the corner booth of a cozy restaurant. Preferably with a crème brûlée present.
Oh, and their eyes? I look into their eyes and feel like the last piece of my soul has shifted into place. And then that one particular guy walks away, leaving me heartbroken, but another catches my fancy the next second and they, too, complete me. It may sound fickle, but it’s true.
This feeling of love for the male Parisian population is so palpable that I needed to write about it. Even Lily Heise, the author of Je T’Aime… Maybe? thinks so. She’s been quoted by The Local saying that Parisians “do have this seductive quality, they’re not afraid to follow their passions, which I think is key.” So there you go folks, it’s not just me!
And what’s even better is that these men are pioneers for feminism. Just recently, the French creative director of Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière, released his Fall 2018 collection to appeal for “gender equality.” The collection was showcased in the Louvre with an audience made up of A-listers. What better way to send a message like that than to do so with a bang?
I have this inkling that, if I got to know any of the beautiful Adonises that crossed my path throughout any given day in Paris, I would be treated with respect and reverence for being a woman, which is as it should be. We’d probably share intimate and incredible discussions on culture and philosophy and he would likely - no, definitely - know a lot more about art than me, but I’d just get to watch him gush with on how the brushstrokes mean something different than the stippling. Normally that would make me fall asleep where I stand, but not with him. Do you see where I’m going with this? Who wouldn’t swoon at that?
The couples
Since Paris is the City of Love, you’ll see couples all over. Like literally, ALL OVER. But what I notice most is just how gushy the men are with their partners! Should I stop talking about the men? No, I don’t think I will. It feels like, in many cultures, men are taught that they need to keep their partners at arm’s length. Yet in Paris, that lesson was never learned or, more importantly, it was never taught. Coming from America where the women’s rights movement is once more in full swing, I am all too familiar with being degraded, looked down upon, and sexualized. When I step off the plane in Paris, I feel none of that, and that’s special. What’s more, it’s not overdone. As I mentioned earlier, there is a fine line between being respectful versus being creepy (a line that some Italian men too often cross). I never feel that the line is impeded upon or that it is even blurred when I am in France.
And public displays of affection? Paris is ground zero for that. You’ll often see men kissing their partner’s cheek or stroking their face. I’ll be standing on a train car listening to my own personal soundtrack of lip-smacking between a couple right next to me on the overpopulated commute. What I hate, though, is that it makes me uncomfortable. At what point were we told that showing how much we love someone is wrong? It saddens me immensely.
Parisian Characters
I will never forget the time I found someone’s wallet outside Notre Dame, brought it to the local police station, and felt my heart stop beating when the words “There are drugs in this wallet” came out of an officer’s mouth. He immediately followed up with a “Ha! Just kidding,” but I somehow found it difficult to muster a laugh, even though it was all in the name of fun. After the fact, I looked back on the experience and realized just how hilarious it had all been.
The French can be stoic at times, but when you catch them at the right moment, they’re all about making light of a situation. It seems that, in America, we have to be very careful about the things we say and do. If something isn’t politically correct, it’s immediately deemed insulting. In Paris, however, there’s very much a shared morale of “To each his own” with little weight given to what is said or done by any one person. It's almost as if they remove the "right" and "wrong" from a scenario and instead settle on "That's your opinion and this is mine." It's a much more mature way or thinking.
The ambiance
Paris is perhaps one of the most magical places in the world. There is something whimsical and enchanting about the city that draws you in and keeps you entranced for the entirety of your stay. I could walk the same Parisian street a hundred times and still feel like I was seeing it with fresh eyes.
While there is a certain grunge factor to the City of Love, there is also an overwhelming sense of character that comes from the beaten up cobblestone streets and the whirring of wind as it passes through the tight-knit residential areas.
When in Paris, every moment feels like it was tailored just for you to create a bespoke travel experience unlike any other. Maybe a million people have eaten at the same restaurant, walked the same streets, perused the same art, but Paris doesn't discriminate. For you, only the best.
Destination Details
Plug type: Two-pronged round pin plug, type "C"
Currency: Euro (€)
Language: French natively, English comfortably
They drive on the... right side of the road
Primary means of transportation: Car, train
Key phrases:
Yes → Oui (“We”)
No → Non ("Known")
Hello → Bonjour (“Bon-jure”)
Hi → Salut ("Sa-loo")
more informal but primarily used between those that know each other, like family and friends
Good morning → Bonjour (“Bon-jure”)
Good afternoon → Bonne après-midi ("Bow-na-pray-me-dee")
Good evening → Bonsoir ("Bone-swa")
Good night → Bonne nuit (“Bah-na-new-ee”)
Goodbye → Au revoir ("Ah-vwah")
Thank you → Merci ("Mare-see")
Thank you very much → Merci beaucoup ("Mare-see-boo-coo")
Please → S'il vous plaît ("See-voo-play")
Excuse me → Excusez-moi ("Scooze-ay-mwah")
Sorry → Pardon ("Pah-dough-n")
Telephone code: +33
Emergency services number: 112
Credit card acceptance: Mastercard (referred to as "Maestro" in Europe) and Visa, as long as the cards have a magstrip and chip. Cash is also widely used.
Food & Libation
Holybelly 5
If you can only go to one place in Paris, make sure it's Holybelly 5. The food here was so good that I went twice in one trip. I'd recommend the sweet stack.
Dress: casual
5 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 Paris, France
Season
Although it's primarily a coffee shop, Season serves some pretty great breakfast.
Dress: casual
1 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, 75003 Paris, France
Angelina
I think everyone has to go to Angelina at least once. I don't necessarily think it's worth going more than that. If you do go, you have to try the hot chocolate - oh my gosh, so good. Just be ready to take a nap afterwards because that's all you'll be able to do once you suffer your sugar crash.
Dress: business casual
226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
L'As du Fallafel
I love this little place. You can either eat in their dining area (which is pretty small) or get your falafel to go from their pick-up window. Is it tourist trap? Totally, but it still serves good food!
Dress: casual
32-34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, France
Grand Cafe Tortoni
I visited this cafe off a recommendation from Yolanda Edwards and, oh my gosh, it was incredible. The ambiance alone is worth the visit. As soon as you enter the cafe, you see the wood-paneled bartop area that is encased with marble. Even the menu is engraved in marble. After you've ordered, your drink is presented to you in this immaculate manner where you feel like you'd be sinning to even drink it. It's a must-see, in my opinion.
Dress: business casual
45 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France
Blend Hamburger
Simple menu with a cute diner aesthetic.
Dress: casual
1 Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75003 Paris, France
D Noodles
Small Chinese restaurant with a limited menu but delicious noodles.
Dress: casual
7 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, France
Fromagerie Laurent Dubois
Laurent Dubois is actually a cheese shop rather than a restaurant but, my goodness, they have some fantastic selections. I picked up some cheese from them and then went and paired it with a baguette while sitting in Jardin des Tuileries and it was amazing.
47 Ter Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris, France
Laduree
I hate to even put Laduree on this list because it's such a tourist trap, but they really do make some incredible pastries. My mom is still head over heels for their rose-flavored macarons (pronounced "mac-a-rone") 3 years after our trip to Paris.
16-18 Rue Royale, 75008 Paris, France
Crêperie Brocéliande
If I had to live off of one food item while in Paris, it'd be the chocolate crepes from Crêperie Brocéliande.
15 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018 Paris, France
Le Calife
This had to be one of the coolest dining experiences I've had so far. Le Calife is a restaurant on a boat that sails down the Seine in the evening so that you can eat and peruse the Parisian cityscape. The best part is when you get to the Eiffel Tower just in time for it's lights to come on and dazzle you. It's one of the highlights from my first trip to Paris.
3 Quai Malaquais, 75006 Paris, France
58 Tour Eiffel
Situated on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower, this restaurant serves up good food and an even better view.
Tour Eiffel, Champ de Mars, 75007 Paris, France
Suggested Day Trips
Brussels, belgium
The destination for meeting all of your chocolate needs. Brussels is also an interesting mix between French and Dutch, which you sense from the people and the culture.
Distance from Paris by train: 1 hour 30 minutes
Dunkirk, France
The site of a major World War II battle.
Distance from Paris by train: 1 hour 45 minutes
Versailles, France
Home to Versailles Palace, the extravagant former residence of French kings for over a hundred years. It's worth going in the summertime so that you can enjoy the sprawling gardens.
Distance from Paris by train: 45 minutes
London, England
A short train ride under the channel brings you to London, which is an experience in itself. Read my London City Guide to learn more.
Distance from Paris by train: 2 hours 30 minutes
Do's and Don'ts
Be Aware of Your Surroundings
On my last trip to Paris, I came across someone's debit card on the ground outside my hostel and then found another person's wallet outside Notre Dame. Pickpocketing is a real issue and you have to be incredibly aware of your belongings at all times. I can't think of a worse situation than being in a foreign country and realizing my valuables had been stolen.
Don't Joke around with the police
As I said, I found a debit card and a wallet while in Paris, which I promptly turned in to the police. Although they were kind enough (besides the joke one of them cracked about there being drugs in the wallet I found), they were very on-guard towards me, and with good reason. Paris has been the target of some cruel terrorist attacks over the past few years that have taken hundreds of lives. As such, French law enforcement does not mess around. If, for any reason, you need the assistance of a police officer, keep things simple and to the point. The language barrier in itself will be difficult so there's no need to make things even more confusing by trying to lighten the mood with a joke.
Keep Your train ticket
Like London, the Paris metro stations have gates set up to keep you from getting into the stations. However, a lot of people mistakenly dispose of their tickets when they board their train, not realizing they'll need it to get out. In addition, there are oftentimes checkpoints where metro workers will check for your ticket to be sure you're not cheating the system somehow. It's best to wait until you are free and clear of the station after your ride to throw out your ticket, just to avoid the uncomfortable moment of being stuck without one.
Cross the street when it's your turn
When I was in Paris last, I was going to breakfast with a friend when she crossed the street before the walking signal turned and almost got hit by a biker. And by "almost," I mean the guy fell off his bike to avoid her. Europeans take their traffic laws very seriously so, unless you have checked at least three times to make sure you can cross the street without forcing someone to dismount from their bicycle or slam on their brakes in order to avoid hitting you, don't do it.
Don't be offended
The French are very blunt and sometimes that can be misconstrued as rudeness when it's just their culture. I did not enjoy my first visit to Paris because I felt like everyone hated me when, in reality, they were totally indifferent to me. I would liken the Parisian temperament to that of New Yorkers - they're a special breed of human that just couldn't give less of a shit about you (if I'm speaking candidly). That's not to say that they're awful people, because I've actually come to love the French. It's just best to be prepared for their frankness.
What to do while there
The Roue de Paris
If you want an incredible view of Paris from 200 feet above the ground, you have to take a ride on the Roue de Paris. It's essentially a huge ferris wheel installed at the end of the Jardin des Tuileries.
Place de la Concorde, 75008, Paris, France
Picnic
Although this seems simple, you really should experience Paris while out having a picnic. There's perhaps nothing more French than lounging outside with some bread, cheese, and wine. I personally recommend Jardin des Tuileries for this but really any park would do.
Scale Notre Dame
I only just found out about this on my last visit to Paris but, apparently, you can climb Notre Dame and take in the sights of the city from its roof. It can be kind of a climb but the reward at the top is so worth it.
6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris, France
NOTE: I'm not including the usual touristy to-do's (Louvre, Eiffel Tower, etc.) because I think everyone already knows plenty about those. They're great, but overrated, in my opinion.