My Favorite Underrated Fashion Houses
When I think of my favorite labels, what comes to mind is not Chanel or Dior but rather, smaller-scale fashion houses that are working relentlessly to make it to the big leagues. I admire the immense amount of work and commitment it takes to stick with it in such a competitive and constantly-evolving industry. While my fashion favorites often change on a whim, I’ve listed a few labels that I’ve been faithful to for years. You may have heard of some but perhaps be completely oblivious to others - my goal is to shine some light on the incredible work being done by all. Hopefully you fall head over heels for them just as I have!
Ralph & Russo
I have been enamored with Ralph & Russo for years now and every time they release a new haute couture collection, I find myself falling deeper in love, which I didn’t think was possible since they’re already my number one! If I had to describe this fashion house in one word, I would call it “ethereal.” Their designs are absolutely stunning and look like they could easily be featured in a Disney princess movie. In fact, many of the women I consider to be modern day princesses (Meghan Markle, JLo, Zendaya, etc.) have worn Ralph & Russo. And I don’t think it’s any coincidence that Angelina Jolie (who plays Maleficent in the Disney movies) is a regular Ralph & Russo patron.
Considering how prominent it’s become, you’d never guess that the label was only 11 years old. It’s founders, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo, both hail from sunny Australia and are considerably young (in their 30s) to have amassed such success. Their attention to detail and expansive work ethic are what sets them apart from other designers. Although the label is most often associated with haute couture, it has also started to incorporate its own heel and handbag line over the last few years. While earlier seasons were bold and rigidly built, more recent collections have experimented with delicate, hand-painted prints as well as loose-fitting materials that accentuate the flow of the feminine form.
If I became suddenly wealthy (still waiting for that to happen!) and could wear any fashion house I wanted, it would be Ralph & Russo, preferably from their SS16 collection. I’m getting excited just thinking about it!
Okay so you know how I mentioned that Ralph & Russo embodies a princess-like aesthetic? Well, Paolo Sebastian does too and quite literally dedicated the SS18 line to Disney-inspired looks. Also Australian, Paul Vasileff started his career in haute couture in 2007 and is similarly quite young (late 20s) to have done so well for himself. His designs are often inspired by fables (hence his Disney-themed collection) and are celestial in their style and form. When I see a Paolo Sebastian gown, I feel like I’ve stepped into Arendelle from The Lord of the Rings (2001). It’s just magical.
Since I’ve already hyped it up so much, it’s probably no surprise that my favorite collection so far is the SS18 line. Nearly every dress incorporates excerpts from famous fairytale storylines that have been expertly etched into the material. It’s the perfect appeal to my inner child that still believes in “Happily Ever After,” which, of course, was also included in the line’s closing gown: a delicate wedding dress with the words “And they lived happily ever after” sewn into the veil. 😍
Although Vasileff is unquestionably talented, his label is much less well-known when compared to Ralph & Russo. Fortunately, though, he is still so young and holds the promise of reaching new heights over the next decade.
The first time I saw Ulyana Sergeenko (online, of course, since I’ve never actually met her), I thought “Whoa… she is stunning,” which was immediately followed by “And that dress? I need it.” Starting her own Russian fashion line in 2011, Sergeenko has become a rising star for giving otherwise antiquated style new life. I would describe her sartorial presence as playfully regal. She incorporates bold elements in her looks (whimsical sleeves and collars) that appeal to her Russian heritage while also accentuating the feminine form.
Although she doesn’t publicize her label as much as she could, her designs are nonetheless popular among the highest-ranking celebrities, such as Kim Kardashain and Beyoncé.
Another Australian - shocker! Alex Perry is a new favorite of mine that I stumbled on while scrolling through Pinterest one day. If you ask any of my closest friends or family, they’ll tell you that my favorite color is black, which is why I feel a very special connection to the Alex Perry pre-fall 2018 collection. The line is made up of some incredible little (and not so little) black numbers that I would do anything to get my hands on. I would describe the style of this particular collection as stoic and sharp due to the stark, patternless designs and harsh lines of the garments.
Starting his career in the early 90s, Alex Perry has remained a fashion icon, conducting most of his business out of Australia. Although his designs have historically been received well, he has limited his production to his home country rather than expanding outward to Europe and North America for a larger market.
Perhaps my favorite part about this label is that the creative director, Josep Font, uses his background in architecture to build pieces for Delpozo. I would describe the brand as youthful and imposing due to the explosiveness of its pieces. Whether the designs incorporate sundry prints or are simply physically substantial, they always give this illusory impression of increasing the volume and presence of the models they’re adorning.
Font assimilates his architectural history well when he marries crisp lines with flamboyant designs to make for playful looks. The label’s pieces are oftentimes packed with punches of color and mesmerizing patterns that create beautiful contrasts.
Created by Jesús del Pozo in 1974, Delpozo has remained a prominent fixture in the fashion community for decades. The label’s philosophy hinges on combining classic couture methods with the demands of the modern woman.
Maybe you’ve heard of these labels and maybe you haven’t. The one thing they all have in common is that they are driven by extremely motivated and talented individuals who continue to excel in the fashion industry. Although it’s easy to name the big-hitting designers as personal favorites, I challenge you to really dig into a few smaller houses so that you can watch them grow into fashion titans as I have. It's truly worth the wait.